A TRIBUTE TO EDOUARD MARCEL SANDOZ
FOUNDED IN 1964 BY THE SCULPTOR AND PAINTER EDOUARD MARCEL SANDOZ, THE SANDOZ FAMILY FOUNDATION IS INTIMATELY LINKED TO THE PARMIGIANI FLEURIER MANUFACTURE.
This unique sculptor did not reserve his talent and sensitivity solely for his depictions of the human form. Animals were also some of his favourite subjects. Passionate about science and a lover of nature, he used a wide variety of materials, sculpting in both wood and stone and moulding clay to produce bronzes with the most sophisticated patinas. An intensity and a universality emanate from all of his works, even from the very smallest of these. The reliefs of the sculptures and the realism of the subjects are unique. His approach, used by no other artist, gently breathed life into the materials, encompassing a wide range of subjects. Through his infinitely delicate work, Sandoz captured the full power of nature.
The Maison Parmigiani Fleurier wished to created a vibrant homage to this exceptional artist. It has drawn on its own sources of inspiration to design and create a piece that combines exquisite craftsmanship and technical brilliance. This extraordinary timepiece includes four of the most sophisticated complications: a minute repeater, a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. A spirit of innovation, the finest production quality and respect for tradition – Parmigiani Fleurier and Edouard Marcel Sandoz share the same values.
CRAFTSMANSHIP THAT EXALTS THE WATCHMAKING ART
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER ONCE AGAIN SETS ITSELF APART WITH THE TECNICA “LES CARPES DE SANDOZ”.
The expertise of the master watchmaker is augmented by the decoration, which reveals a variety of traditional craft techniques used to produce a composition of extraordinary vitality. They combine and coalesce to seduce and arose the emotions of the watch’s lucky owner. The eye is instantly captivated by the beautiful aquatic scene. The talents of several craftsmen were required to bring it to life.
It all begins with the engraver, who works, cuts and models the material to breathe life into the decoration and produce the texture required to reflect the light of the enamel in all directions. It is under his hand that the lines, curves, details, veins and scales appear. The fish and foliage seem to quiver. The enameller is next. He adds colour and delicately illuminates the subtle shades and transparencies present in nature. The deep, harmonious colours are obtained using “grand feu” enamel.
This ornamental technique used on dials is the most difficult to apply, but also offers the best durability. The aquatic scene featured on the Tecnica “Les Carpes de Sandoz” is not painted. It is the result of several oxides applied to the dial. The dial is then fired several times in an oven at a temperature of between 800 and 900°C to reveal the pattern and colours. Each firing brings out the different layers, and the effects of depth gradually bring the dial to life by adding energy and relief. Only “grand feu” enamel can produce the such refined and unalterable decoration.
The golden carp are appliqués, and have been sculpted in tribute to Edouard Marcel Sandoz. With their brilliant scales and near-transparent fins, they almost leap from the dial. They slide through the graceful underwater foliage. The leaves are rendered in hyper-real fashion, with the intricately designed leaf veins capturing and gloriously diffusing the light.
In keeping with the Haute Horlogerie tradition, special attention has also been paid to the back of the watch. The hinged double case-back is both engraved and enamelled. It features a stylised, geometric aquatic leaf pattern. Each line and vein on the leaves reflects the light, creating an illusion of depth. The blue and green match the colours of the dial, and the leaves feature three drops of green enamel, in contrast to the two drops on the adjacent blue background, in order to give the foliage a convex surface. The technique is a unique expression of the most accomplished expertise. The hand-worked white gold enhances the decoration with its shimmering accents. In the interest of complete harmony, the lugs and buckle also reiterate the dial’s foliage pattern. Left in its natural state, without enamel, the gold reveals a patina which brings masculinity to the piece.
Hidden beneath the decorative flora and fauna is a mechanical movement equipped with four complications that embody the essence of the watchmaker’s art: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. This exceptional movement features Haute Horlogerie finishes. All of the bridges are hand-bevelled. And for the ultimate touch of sophistication, they are engraved with decorative foliage reminiscent of the captivating scene found on the dial.
This 13”’ calibre, 29.90 mm in diameter and 9.35 mm thick, comprises no fewer than 586 components and 47 jewels. The driving organ consists of a barrel that provides a power reserve of 40 hours. The escapement oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour). It displays hours and minutes. The chronograph function display is a 30-minute counter concentric to the day counter, while the ¹⁄³ second is indicated by a large central hand.
The perpetual calendar indicates the day, date and month on three counters at 3 o’clock, 12 ‘clock and 9 o’clock respectively, while the three common years and the leap year are shown in a small counter integrated into the month counter at 9 o’clock.
Chime and minute repeater
Two cathedral chimes sound the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. Instead of the traditional side bolt, the minute repeater is wound elegantly by rotating a knurled ring positioned discreetly under the bezel a quarter turn clockwise.